Columbia Icefield: Exploring Athabasca Glacier
It’s breathtakingly rugged and serene. It’s iconic. It’s one of my favourite places in Canada. Discovered in 1883 by three Canadian Pacific Railway construction workers, Banff National Park is home to majestic mountains, stunning glacial lakes, caves and roughly 250 glaciers -a fact that I didn’t know when I visited Banff earlier this month. I knew of the Columbia Icefield. I’ve driven passed the information center to Jasper a few times over the years. However, I was blissfully unaware that Banff National Park contained 250 glaciers.
Since 1940 the Icefields Parkway has given millions of visitors access to some of the most stunning sites that both Banff National Park and Jasper National Park have to offer. Aside from gorgeous glacial lakes, and majestic mountains, the Icefields Parkways offers views of several glaciers. In fact, a drive along the Icefields Parkway will take you past not one, but four icefields – the most famous one being the Columbia Icefield.
Partly in the northwestern tip of Banff National Park and the south end of Jasper National Park, the Columbia Icefield is positioned atop the triple Continental Divide. It feeds 8 major glaciers and its melt-waters empty into the Pacific, Atlantic and North Atlantic oceans.
The most visited glacier within the Columbia Icefield is Athabasca. Framed by Mount Andromeda on the left and Snow Dome on the right, Athabasca Glacier is a must see. Due to heavy snowfall in the winter (mid-Oct to mid-April), the best time to see the glacier is during late spring to early fall.
There are a few ways to see the Athabasca Glacier.
Icefield Centre
Located on the east side of the Icefield Parkway, is the Icefield Centre. A hot spot at any time of year, the Icefield Centre can be as congested as Grand Central station during peak season. As with all tourist centres, many of the services inside the Incefield Centre are overpriced ($2.50 for a small bag of chips, $3.50 for a bottle of coke. $3 for 30 mins of internet). However, there are also some valuable aspects of the centre, such as the Glacier Gallery Exhibit (lower level) and a fabulous panoramic view of the Columbia Icefield.
Forefield Trail
It’s a 1 kilometer walk (or a short drive) from the Icefield Centre to the head of Forefield Trail -which takes you to the foot of the Athabasca Glacier. It’s an easy hike, and most importantly, it’s FREE! When you reach the foot of the glacier, there is a small roped off section of the glacier which you can walk on. DO NOT walk past the barrier!
Snocoach
At first, the $50 charge may seem exorbitant. However, after participating in Brewster’s Columbia Icefield Glacier Experience, I’ve become a big fan of the snocoach option.
The drive from the Icefield Centre to the Snocoaches is about 8 minutes, as the road is narrow and steep in places. You’ll pass moraines on both sides of the road, as well as stunning views of Mount Andromeda and Snow Dome. When we arrived at the Snocoaches, my excitement grew. They’re massive! Hell, climbing aboard the snocoach is an attraction all on its own. It’s like riding inside a Monster Truck -except it’s longer and only has 1 speed, slow.
The drive down to the surface of Athabasca Glacier is steep. As we descend, our driver (Kelsey) warned everyone to buckle their seat belts. Over the half the bus (including me!) looked for theirs before we realize there are no seat belts and Kelsey is just playing around. As we drive along the glacier I spot streams of glacial water flowing through the ice. Its beautiful. I couldn’t get over the contrast of the blue water flowing through the white snow and ice of the glacier.
The scene is surreal. It’s August. It’s hot in the city, but here I am, freezing on a glacier. As our snocoach comes to a stop we’re asked to stay within the barrier of blue pylons and invited to drink some glacial water. I have to admit, I was disappointed that the blue pylons were so close. However I understood why. Every year there’s a fatality on the ice because some moron decides to walk past the barrier and ends up falling into a crevasse. For this reason, I decided to stay within the boarders. However, I would later watch in horror as a 6 year old boy ran around the glacier, way beyond the barriers without a parent in sight! Seriously, how dumb of a parent due you have to be? Thankfully nothing happened and the little boy eventually returned to the crowds within the barriers.
Even with the barriers being so close, the experience is well worth the expense. It was cold, but nobody cared. We were standing on a GLACIER! With camera in hand I began walking around, snapping way too many photos. My only wish was that the day hadn’t been so smoky, but what can a girl do? I didn’t start all those forest fires in BC.
The Athabasca Glacier measures about 6 km long, and 270 ft to 1,000 ft thick. At one time, the glacier was all the way to the Icefields Parkway, however it’s receded 1.5 kilometers in the past 125 years and continues to recede 2-3 meters every year. As I stood on its surface I couldn’t help but feel sad. It’s disappearing so quickly. How much longer will people be able to visit before it would be too dangerous?
There is a lot of talk around the globe about the ozone layer and how natural resources are disappearing. It’s becoming even more important for us to live a more green lifestyle, to preserve nature and help to educate each other. In Banff -as with all National Parks in Canada- protecting the environment is a top priority. With focuses on water conservation, minimizing environmental impact, recycling and special treatment systems, Brewster has created an award-winning environmental stewardship program that is helping to protect the Columbia Icefield (as well as other sites in Banff). Using low-water fixtures and recycling gray water, educating visitors, and using recycled materials such as asphalt are a few ways that Brewster is giving back.
The glacier experience lasts roughly 80 minutes, but I was so enthralled in my surroundings that it felt more like 20 minutes. My only wish was that I had brought a better camera with me.
Traveling to the Columbia Icefield may seem out of reach if you’re visiting Banff, Lake Louise or Jasper and do not have a vehicle. However that’s not the case. Brewster offers guided Canadian Rockies tours that include transportation from either of the the three towns listed above, as well as the guided tour of Athabasca Glacier.
The tour I participated in left from Banff and made stops at Lake Louise, Bow Lake, and Peyto Lake on the way to the Columbia Icefields. It was a great way to sit back, relax and enjoy the amazing work of Mother Nature.


07. Sep, 2010 
























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