Spunkygirl Monologues

Fair rides at Whoop Up Days in Lethbridge, Alberta. Every August Lethbridge hosts Whoop Up Days. A four-day event featuring fair rides, yummy greasy snacks, live music, exhibits and rodeo events.

Yes, I know. I’m committing  a major blogger faux pas by claiming to have just eaten the BEST burger on the planet. However, as of today, at this moment in my life, I have. Seriously.

While walking around Banff earlier today my eyes were drawn to a place called The Eddie Burger + Bar on Caribou Street. The place looked cool. It was small, with a simple and clean look and it was busy- a good sign. But, I was meeting Rob from Brewsters Canada at Saltlik, so I decided to pass (for the moment).

While we were sitting on the patio talking about travel, Banff and all the great things Banff has to offer, Rob mentioned that The Eddie had the best onion rings in town. As a girl who loves her onion rings, I was intrigued and wanted to find out for myself.

There are three things that make a restaurant a great place to eat. 1. Ambiance, 2. Food, 3. Service. As I mentioned above, The Eddie is small, but that’s one of the things that makes this place worth a stop. I loved the clean lines, the dark wood and the cozy feel. For a small eatery/bar, it’s equipped with 4 flat screen TVs. Yes, 4. Why? No clue.

Food

The Eddie offers more than your standard AAA beef burger. Customers can try burgers like Elk, Bison, Lamb, Chicken, & Veggie. Customers also have the option of ordering off their standard menu, or creating their own burger (which I understand is a bigger portion as a 1/2 side dish is not included).

I opted for The Eddie Classic Burger and a 1/2 order of Onion Rings. At first glance, the burger looks small, but in all honesty it was the perfect size- for me. The burger was moist (I actually got burger juice on my top, lol), and a little tall. In fact my big mouth, wasn’t big enough! I had to squish it to eat it. The onion rings were done just right. The onions weren’t over cooked, and the oil they used to fry them was fresh. I know that sounds weird, but it’s important. Eating fried food that has been fried in old oil is disgusting. No matter how good the food is, the old oil after taste kills it every time. For the first time in a LONG time I enjoyed onion rings that were fresh.

Service

I’m a pretty picky person when it comes to service. I believe in tipping well for good service. Being a waitress/waiter is not an easy job. In fact it’s a pretty thankless job. However, if they want to make money, they need to be on their A-game on each an every shift. My waitress at The Eddie was one of those waitresses. She was friendly, informative, polite and fast. I think I waited all of 10 minutes for my food and less than 5 for my beverage (The Trash Can- WOW!).  Although I didn’t sit at the bar (it was 6 feet away from my table) I did take note of the bar tender. No, I was not ‘checking him out’, I was observing his treatment of his customers, which was friendly and polite.

Banff gets a bad rap, a lot. It’s been blamed for being snobby, rude, uptight etc. It’s not. There are bad experiences in every town in the world. Nobody is perfect all the time. Thankfully, my meal this evening wasn’t one of those bad experiences. It was one of those great experiences. I didn’t feel like I was eating in a tourist trap, I felt like I was eating in my favourite local joint. I was greeted by smiling staff within seconds of walking in the door, the service was fast, the food was scrumptious, and the price was reasonable.

Total Meal Cost (food + drink) $23.00

The Eddie Burger + Bar. #6 137 Banff Avenue (on Caribou St. between Banff Ave & Bear St.) facebook: eddieburgerbar

Once a massive glacier, Waterton Lakes National Park is the Canadian half of the Water Glacier International Peace Park, and a World Heritage Site. Located in South-western Alberta, Waterton Lakes National Park shares borders with British Columbia in Canada and Montana in the United States. As you pay your entrance fee (If you visit between October and May 15th, entry is FREE) and follow the road into the Rocky Mountains the first sight to greet you is the famous Prince of Wales Hotel.

Built in 1926- 1927 by the American Great Northern Railway, the Prince of Wales Hotel sits on a hill that overlooks the Waterton Town-site and Upper Waterton Lake, and is located in one of the windiest areas of Waterton. In fact, people have been known to lean over the cliff, as the wind will keep them from falling over into the lake (I really don’t recommend this!).
Staying at the hotel can be a bit pricey. The rooms don’t have a television or phone because the hotel is meant to be a getaway, which makes it popular with celebrities who make yearly visits to the hotel (David Letterman and the band Coldplay are among recent guests). However, if you’re into the supernatural, then splurge a little and ask to stay in one of the hotel’s haunted rooms (I’m too chicken!).

Aside from the Prince of Wales Hotel, Waterton Lakes National Park has plenty to see and do, and still has a small town feel. One aspect that’s bound to amaze and surprise first time visitors is the wildlife. Over the years Deer in the area have become very accustom to having people around, and can be seen walking the streets or lounging on lawns. However, the deer are not alone, occasionally families of Big Horn Sheep can be seen walking through town as well. If you’re a wildlife enthusiast, continue reading. There are some tips listed below.

Hotels
Waterton is very strict, as far as the amount of building and construction that can happen in the park. For that reason there are only a handful of hotel options available. These are my recommendations…
Crandall Mountain Lodge- This is a wonderful, family-run hotel. Small, but cozy! Open all year.
The Kilmorey Lodge- I’m including this as it’s popularity may have reached your ears. Unfortunately, there was a fire a couple of years ago and the lodge burnt down. However, it’s currently under construction! Look for it’s re-opening, they have amazing staff and usually the best food in town!
Bayshore Inn- I use to work here, I had to mention it! A great option, right beside Upper Waterton Lake. Open May- Oct.

Food & Drink
Pizza of Waterton- The name says it all. If you’re in the mood for pizza, then walk on over and buy some from this place. So yummy!
Zum’s Eatery- By far, the BEST burgers in the park. This is a popular place on the main road, which has a patio!
Big Scoop Ice Cream Parlor- I love the ice cream here almost as much as I love their homemade waffle cones. This place is a summer favourite and a must stop for any and every visitor to Waterton. It’s located on the main road, just a few doors from Zum’s.
Glacier Bistro & Burger Barn- Mmmm nachos! This is one of 4 dinning facilities at the Bayshore Inn.
Thirsty Bear Salon- If you’re in the mood to party, then this is pretty much the only place in town!

Activities
Waterton Shoreline Cruises- On a beautiful sunny day, taking a cruise down Upper Waterton Lake is a must! The M.V. International has been in service since 1927 and holds roughly 200 people. For $36 (a round-trip ticket) you can cruise down Upper Waterton Lake to Goat Haunt, Montana (where you stop for about 30 mins) and then back to the Waterton town-site. The cruise is about 2 1/4 hrs in length and if you take the first one of the day, you may be rewarded with a bear sighting or two!
Rent a Bike/ Scooter- Go to Pat’s and rent a surrey bike. It’s just plain fun! Pat’s has everything- fishing gear, snacks, bikes, scooters, gas…
Rent a canoe or paddle boat- Cameron Lake is breathtaking! During the summer season you can rent a canoe or paddle boat and enjoy stellar views and possibly some wildlife sightings as well!
Horseback Riding- Alpine Stables is located within Waterton Lakes National Park and offers trail rides and over night trips. If you’re looking for a unique way to experience Waterton, go on a trail ride.
Scuba Diving- Believe it or not, there are some fun treasures at the bottom of Upper Waterton Lake, including a ferry boat!

Hikes
There are plenty of hikes in the park, for all skill levels. Below are some of my personal favourites.

Bears Hump- The entrance for this hike is above the Visitors Centre (across the road from the Prince of Wales Hotel). The hike takes about 30-60 minutes, and offers amazing views of the valley. Be prepared for a work-out though, it gets a little steeper as you get closer to the top.
Lineham Falls- OMG, this hike offered amazing views, but boy were my legs tired! The hike is about 8 km, with a steady incline all the way to the falls.
Wall Lake, BC- I remember repeating “I think I can, I think I can” at the beginning of this hike. The first part is pretty steep, but it eventually levels off.
Red Rock Canyon/ Blackiston Falls- Not a challenging hike, but a beautiful one.
A popular hike, which I have yet to complete is Crypt Lake. Crypt Lake is on the other side of Upper Waterton Lake and is a full-day hike. The incline is steep, complete with ropes and a tunnel, but I’m told it’s totally worth it. Check with the visitors centre before going as there are Grizzly Bears on that side of the lake and sometimes the hike will be closed if bear scat or dead animals are found on or near the trail.

Wildlife

There is plenty of wildlife in Waterton, aside from the Deer and Big Horn Sheep who regularly visit the town-site. The following is a list of wildlife and where they can generally be seen within the park. Please remember that these are wild animals and should not be approached. If you see one, admire from a distance, do not take risks with your personal safety!
Bears- As I mentioned above, Grizzly Bears are more common on the eastern shore of Upper Waterton Lake, around Crypt and Vimy. The western shore has more brown bears. Although bears are known to wander into the town-site, the rangers are quick to respond and “encourage” them back into the mountains. Bears can be spotted around Cameron Lake, and on the road to Red Rock Canyon. They’ve also been known to frequent the golf course.
Moose- Sometimes a pair of antlers can be seen poking up from Upper Waterton Lake, but the most common sighting is along the river the runs through Red Rock Canyon.
Elk- There’s a herd somewhere in the park. These guys are harder to find. I’ve generally seen them on the road between the town-site and the entrance to the park.
Buffalo/ Bison- There’s a paddock of Buffalo located outside the park, and it’s pretty cool if you’ve never seen one before!

Waterton Lakes National Park holds a special place in my heart. In the summer of 2003, it was my home. I worked and played and had an amazing time. I lived in a dorm room, and remember the entire town smelling like one massive camp fire because there were serious Forrest fires located nearby (we were on an evacuation alert). Although Banff is still the big draw in Alberta, I highly recommend a visit to Waterton. It’s a quiet, peaceful place- even when it’s in the height of tourist season.

** Note: IF you decide to take the cruise to Goat Haunt, Montana and want to do a hike in Glacier National Park before returning to Waterton, remember the bring your passport. You’re still crossing an interntional boarder, even though it consists of a ranger and a hut the size of an outhouse.

Taking in Alberta’s enormous cattle ranches and hector upon hector of cornfields, it’s hard for me to grasp how richly the area is soaked in history. In fact, it never dawned on me at all when I first moved back here in 2003. (I was born in northern Alberta, but my family left when I was just 3.) As it turns out, the province has very strong Native American roots and bragging rights to the largest deposit of dinosaur remains in the world. Discovering these layers of history has become an intriguing way of learning about a world I thought I’d left behind at a very young age. The thrilling Head-Smashed-In Buffalo Jump is just the beginning.

The aboriginal people of the North American Plains were experts in topography and the behaviour of buffalo, and their method of using both for their own survival was ingenious. For nearly 6,000 years, the native people chased the herds of buffalo throughout the Porcupine Hills, southern Alberta and beyond. Why? For food! But catching the ox-like animals, which travel in tight herds led by dominant females, wasn’t easy. Although buffalo have poor eyesight, they have an amazing sense of smell. This made hunting them a challenge; the clever method they developed explains the odd “head-smashed-in” name of the place.

“Drive lanes” were decorated with stone cairns, and below the cliffs, camps buzzed with the sounds of boiling pits and the carving of weapons and other tools needed to prepare a buffalo to eat. Once the wind started to blow over the cliffs, towards the basin, it was time. The winds made it virtually impossible for the buffalo to smell the danger ahead, so the North American Plains people skillfully drove them right to the edge of the cliffs – and then off the sides, to their dramatic deaths.

I began my tour of the area with a short walk outside to the very cliff tops where herds of buffalo once met their dramatic endings. The wind up there was insane, and I was the only person out there at the time, which I loved.  After a few minutes of being whipped around by the powerful gusts, I walked back to the interpretative centre to walk through the exhibits. I was taking notes about Napi (more on that later) when Little Leaf, an anthropologist and former teacher, approached me. Within minutes, my experience at Head-Smashed-In-Buffalo Jump shot from a standard museum/art gallery type visit to an enthralling educational experience that lasted more than two hours.

During our time together, Little Leaf was kind enough to share some Blackfoot history he had recorded on a video. If you have some time, take a look. He’s a wonderful storyteller, and I could have listened to him for hours and hours. Before you click play, think of something Little Leaf said to me before filming: when talking about Native Americans “… It is more than feathers and beads”.

Little Leaf was an entertaining man who took time to speak with me about the Blackfoot people. He talked at length about the difference between today’s Native American children and their ancestors. I found it fascinating, and a little scary, that only 2-3% of modern Native American children know and practice their traditional beliefs. As time has progressed, more and more Native American children are forsaking their own customs in an effort to fit into the Western culture. The result? Native American languages and traditions are dying.  This cultural genocide is a horrifying thought. There are so few full-blooded Native Americans still around, and even less who know and speak their language and are familiar with their legends. Theirs is no longer a co-operative environment; things have become more individualistic, more Western. Oh, how I could talk and talk about this topic, but I think it’s best to leave it for another post.

In 1981, Head-Smashed-In Buffalo Jump became a World Heritage Site, and its Interpretive Centre opened its doors in December 1986. Open seven days a week from 10 a.m. to 5 p.m., the centre is designed for visitors to start at the top and work their way back down, which I found an exciting break from the norm. After viewing the hunting sites outside, I hiked up to Level 1, where visitors learn about Napi, the mythical creator of the Blackfoot people. A series of boards illustrate the creation of life and the nature and habits of buffalo: “After Napi had the earth all made, he took up some mud and made the shape of a buffalo…”

An oversized tipi reigns over the second level, Napi’s People, which boasts various artifacts, like buffalo hide, which visitors are encouraged to touch. Level 3 brings visitors to the Hunt, where one learns about the drives, and Level 4 is Cultures in Contact. There, visitors learn about the Europeans’ affect on native buffalo culture when they arrived in the early 18^th century, toting unforeseen wonders like guns and horses. It’s at that time in history that the traditions and culture of the North American Plains people began to change and, in my opinion, started to decline, as they strove to adapt to Western ways.

At the beginning of Level 5 is a small 80-seat theatre, which shows a 15 min re-enactment video about the hunts. (It’s actually suggested that visitors watch the video first, before beginning their tour, so they can picture how the hunts worked.) The remainder of Level 5 focuses on the archeological aspects of the site, with boards on more modern tools, maps and how discoveries were made.

Head-Smashed-In is not just another stop to make on your tourist list; in fact if you’re planning to visit for the sake of saying you were there, don’t bother. You’re cheating yourself if you do. This site is rich in Native American culture and has powerful spiritual ties to its people. If you plan on having an “experience,” you’ve picked the right spot! Go with excitement and an open mind. If Little Leaf is walking around, stop and talk with him, as he’s a wealth of knowledge. The purpose of the centre is to share knowledge and culture, and the staff are more than happy to answer any questions you may have. Who knows, maybe you’ll encounter one of the spirits Little Leaf talked to me about!

Head-Smashed-In Buffalo Jump and The Interpretative Centre are located about 16kms northwest of Fort Macleod, Alberta.  Admission fees:  Adults $9, Seniors $8, Youth 7-17 $5, Family $22 and children under 7 are FREE.

I’d like to take a moment to thank Conrad (the name the government gave him) Little Leaf for speaking with me about the site and Blackfoot and Native culture. If you’d like to learn more about the current struggles of Native American people, refer to the Indian Act here: http://laws.justice.gc.ca/en/I-5/.